New to trading cards, just received first edition of NSU. Wondering how to realistically assess value of base sets that are not listed in NSU's price guide. I understand E-Bay is not a very reliable source, but that doesn't seem to leave me much else to work with. Thanks ahead of time.

Why is ebay not a reliable source?

You instantly get to see what people are willing to pay for an item so you know that is it's current worth.

What it should be worth of course is something totally diffrent but you could sit there for the rest of your life saying this set is worth $50 but if every set that sells goes for $10 then that is the reality of the item's value.

Wolfie has a point, but when looking at ebay you also have to watch out for the occasional bidding war that tends to skew the averages. Admittedly, that doesn't happen that often on base sets, but when it does it makes estimating a value a little trickier. And there is always the tendency for a set to be offered at a ridiculously high price and be relisted over and over, so I would think that you really only want to look at completed sales.

Welcome to Card Talk Ballen

NSU Price Guide is simply that - a guide - unless we are talking a very rare individual card or chase set (or less common a whole base set) then the Guide does not usually reflect todays online prices.

Condition of the card(s) is a major factor in determining its value.

You can pay out to have individual cards graded which can inflate its price (or rip you off!) and honestly most buyers HATE having to pay x2 or x3+ a cards 'current' or even book value all because it's 'graded'. You can go that route if you choose.

If you think you hit gold, you can always ask about a specific card or set on the Forums here.

I personally use trusted card outlets/online stores, that I reguarly purchase from and seperatly I will check Ebay for comparison. Stores may sell at 'book price' where as Ebay and other similar online purchase points will usually* sell at 'current' price ie what people are willing to pay at that time depending on the card/set/condition etc.

*Like you say though, Ebay can be a place for both bargains and overinflation of prices but if you 'average' out the most commonly seen price for you card/set then you can get an idea of the best price for yourself.

If you dont see your card/set listed that can either be a good sign that you card/set is scarce and worth more or not so good because it could mean people arent interested in buying that card/set currently.

Hope that helps somewhat sorry for it being much longer than I intended.

Haha, no problem, you all helped provide me with a really good idea of how to go about this. I've just come into a collection of cards and I'm in the process of getting to know what I have, what I like, and what I want to trade with. I've jumped the gun trying to get trading before I really knew exactly what I had so I'm in a hurry again (in a more productive way, I hope) trying to clear up my lists and perfect them so I can get down to the fun stuff and start collecting. I do use E-Bay as a rough guide for those I can't find elsewhere, but I'm sure to note that I found that price on E-Bay. I'm just trying to set my self up with enough knowledge to make fair trades and avoid getting ripped off, so thanks everyone.

Also beware of Buy It Now (BIN) prices on eBay. Some sellers list BINs that are insanely overpriced just hoping that someone wants it quick enough to take the bait. There are a lot of BINs that never seem to change, even though no one is buying. Best Offer can also be deceiving because many sellers will seem to accept offers, only to ignor them when made.

interesting point on the "best offer", I recently made an offer on an old base set, my first offer was declined with no message, I made a 2nd offer, again declined but this time with a fairly offensive comment. I was initally offering about 60% then 70%, and was expecting to negotiate a mutually agreeable price.. I was quite put out that the seller was so uptight/rude about receiving what he thought was a less than accpetable offer.

Ebay is not complicated and has options to not have to deal with offers that are less-than-acceptable.. anyway i explained to the seller how ebay works.. it's' a shame as i wanted the set, apparently I can't afford it though lol

I've had several auctions where I've submitted reasonable offers. Never heard back, the offer expired after x number of days. Problem with this system is I can't bid on the same card different auction until the offer expires or I risk getting both.

I always use guides to determine value for insurance purposes other wise 60-70% is what I'm able to sell for. Times were a lot different before ebay came along, sure cards were much harder to find but they held their value longer.

There is also a book published for prices. Lists additional sets no longer in the regular guide with the magazine. Assuming they should have some in the NSU store?

quote:

Originally posted by Raven:
Also beware of Buy It Now (BIN) prices on eBay. Some sellers list BINs that are insanely overpriced just hoping that someone wants it quick enough to take the bait. There are a lot of BINs that never seem to change, even though no one is buying. Best Offer can also be deceiving because many sellers will seem to accept offers, only to ignor them when made.

You also have to be careful when looking at Best Offers in completed auctions. When browsing completed auctions it will show the original asking price and not the actual price that was accepted. You have to click on the listing to get the actual sale price.

BALLEN as far I can tell you. The base sets prices will depend of a lot of factors in special how difficult is to get a sealed box. Today common sets as far I saw will never cost more than $10. In special if the modern card manufacturers warranty you a complete set by box.

quote:

Condition of the card(s) is a major factor in determining its value.

A big factor for some collector. I don't like sellers that use "mint from pack". As far I can tell everybody here after opening thousands of packs and dozens of boxes. A sealed pack or box isn't warranty to get cards in Near Mint or Mint condition.

The "Best offer" is a joke. It is very rare to find a seller that is really interesting to accept offers.

quote:

Originally posted by kane1:
BALLEN
The "Best offer" is a joke. It is very rare to find a seller that is really interesting to accept offers.

Actually my experience is just the opposite. There are a few who don't understand how to use it but most of my BIN purchases are with a best offer being accepted.

I think lately ebay may be the only reliable source. Like wolfie says you get to see fairly quick the true market value of items. Id trust those stats long before I trust an outdated mindset such as the NSU pricing guides.

quote:

Originally posted by Chrisahend:

quote:

Originally posted by kane1:
BALLEN
The "Best offer" is a joke. It is very rare to find a seller that is really interesting to accept offers.

Actually my experience is just the opposite. There are a few who don't understand how to use it but most of my BIN purchases are with a best offer being accepted.

Agreed. I've almost always been successful in getting my Best Offer accepted by a seller. The key is to not make an offer so low that the seller either doesn't respond at all or counters with an offer that is higher than what they would have accepted had you not been so greedy. I usually offer 70% of the asking price with the thought in mind that I will go to 80% if that's what the seller counters with. But they've almost always sold at the 70% mark. And if the asking price and what I'm willing to pay is further apart than that, then I just don't bid!

quote:

Originally posted by dcole:
Agreed. I've almost always been successful in getting my Best Offer accepted by a seller. The key is to not make an offer so low that the seller either doesn't respond at all or counters with an offer that is higher than what they would have accepted had you not been so greedy. I usually offer 70% of the asking price with the thought in mind that I will go to 80% if that's what the seller counters with. But they've almost always sold at the 70% mark. And if the asking price and what I'm willing to pay is further apart than that, then I just don't bid!

I have never had a seller reduce the price 30% or even 20% on a Best Offer. If I'm lucky they will take off 10% or $10 or perhaps just enough to cover the shipping.

I think it depends on the price of the item you're buying. If its a $10 BIN on a card, you might get it for $7, but if its a $100 BIN on a card you won't get it for a $70 offer.

That is of course assuming that the item is accurately priced in the first place. For example if its an overpriced $100 BIN on a card that is really closer to a $70 value, than the seller will be happy to honor your 30% off offer because he is really giving you nothing.