So, I am fascinated by the 'lines in the sand' people draw in regards to their collection. I feel that this topic is personal and shouldn't be judged as when we look at our collection, we should be the ones satisfied.
So, I'm curious about what others define their collecting on these topics:
redemption cards-I don't collect these unless they vary wildly from the source card. Example-SkyBox Skymotion cards. Obviously the redemption cards are cardboard and the skymotion are...skymotion. Redemption autograph cards are often just the same card front with a different back. I have some regrets in not pursuing these. At the time, it seemed like the right choice. The cards weren't 'enough' different and as a dealer it was nice to sell them to people eager for them to fund the cards I eagerly wanted to collect. As you can see, I'm still conflicted
Foil numbering-the card is exactly the same, but stamped with foil lettering and numbers. Case in point-Inflexions sketches. Same sketches, same card- but with a foil stamping. I struggle with this one. At the time, I kept a few sketches I liked. Later, I had regrets at not keeping one from each 'series' represented in the run. I was never able to get TOS Captain's Collection sketch after I started having doubts. Sour grapes can cause me not to be too sad I don't collect them annnnyyyywwaayyyyy.
Error Cards-I don't collect ooops cards-miscuts, upsides downs. But, if an error is 'fixed', I want both copies. Think the Paris sketches in Women of Voyager or a base card in 40th.
Variations-I define this as a card that is exactly the same but something added to it is different. Different autograph inks, different color cloth in a relic. I don't collect these full stop. I don't collect inscriptions beyond one example per card. I collect cards. So as long as I have one copy of the card, I'm good. As a dealer, I love them though. Giggle ))

I feel like a 'bad collector' saying this but I really just collect what I like. I mainly collect autographs and sketches so I chase the best looking autographs. I don't care if they are numbered, or parallel, or whatever. . . I mainly look for clean autographs and attractive cards. . . then buy the cheapest version that meets those criteria.

Hi Lynne,

Referring to the "Orville" thread, I wouldn't collect the autopenned card and would gladly send it back to get the real autograph. The autopenned card is a fake - not a variation. However, as a collector, I understand why another collector would want that card too even if it is a fake because it is a card that was in the pack, "official" in that way even if it was an oversight on the company's part, and it is uncommon to rare.

Similar to that situation but not the same are unsigned autograph cards. They were printed to be autographed but the company didn't get them all signed. In some cases a company kept the unsigned extras, sometimes giving them out as samples to show dealers what they look like or the cards were put out on the market after the company went out of business. Some collectors just want signed cards but others want that one too or they might want the unsigned one if the signed one is too expensive.

With autograph redemption cards there can be a version that was in the packs and another version that was never released because they listed a card that didn't end up in the set. There was an unreleased, Inkworks redemption card for the "Catwoman" set that included Halle Berry but she never signed so another redemption card without her name was the one that went in the packs. The cards with her name appeared on Ebay some time after the company went out of business. People have wanted that card but sellers have tended to want too much for it. Inkworks had redemption cards with a list of signers on it and the autograph you would get was marked on the card in the packs. Unreleased, unmarked cards also reached the market later and tend to sell for a reasonable price.

Jess

For me, my own collecting focus is primarily on certified autograph cards. I have zero interest in any licensed, but unsigned card that makes it's way to the market by hook or by crook. I regard it as an incomplete or damaged product, but I can see where other collectors think it a rarity to add to their collection. My biggest concern with unsigned cards is that they get signed by "someone" and you are left with a licensed certified card bearing a fake autograph. I therefore encourage all card makers to destroy such cards before they find their way out the back door.

I hate redemption cards, having gotten stuck with two unredeemable cards in the past. If I accidently find one, I would prefer that the maker return the voided redemption card with the actual card. I would keep that as proof of source if possible. I do think that cards that have to go through the redemption process have more value just because of the effort to get them.

I don't pursue variants as a rule because many times the differences are so small that they are barely noticed, but there are exceptions. I like multi-color swatches over single color swatches. I like real, not manufactured, patches. I'm a big fan of autograph cards using different ink colors. I bought multiple copies of Breygent autographs from favorite signers in different colors.

I've never been actively looking for error cards, but I did get the Fleer Ripken "FF bat" card back in the day. You have to remember that an error card only counts when there is a corrected version and some corrected versions are shorter printed and thus more valuable than the error itself. With modern publishing, not many error cards get made anymore, just as card factory defects have also been reduced.

Numbering of base cards, parallel cards, autograph cards or anything else leaves me unimpressed. As does adding foil or changing border colors. It's a bogus way of pretending rarity without expensing very much extra. I am happy to have a full base set and I take the cheapest version of any certified autograph card, as its just as genuine as a numbered one.

Inscription designed cards add value to me for only the main signers in any set. I believe that a common signer is a common signer all over. The set or card design doesn't change the demand for that signature. Some inscription autographs of common signers are asking over four times the price of the signer's regular card. I am only interested in the most reasonable price for that person.

Finally I only buy cards made by legitimate card manufacturers that are paying the copyright holder. Unlicensed cards are cheap, unfair competition for collector dollars and are worthless counterfeit merchandise in the eyes of the hobby.

Regarding the statement that Redemption cards sell for reasonable prices .
I beg to differ My collecting interests are Inkworks and I find it hard to be able to get Inkworks Redemption cards at reasonable prices. There are prices of up to a $1000.00 and up for some Lost 2 Redemption cards being asked for by a large UK dealer, And many over the $50.00 mark.
What would you consider a reasonable price for a Inkworks Redemption card
Another item is the high prices being asked lately for signed Buffy base cards some say they have COAs but anyone can print one of those.
Others dont even bother to offer verification .
But if people want to buy them it is their money.

Hi Piko,

If you're talking to me, I bought an Inkworks James Bond ("The World is Not Enough" R1) redemption card for $10-15 including shipping sometime last year. I think fellow Card Talk member, X, mentioned finding a cheap one like that too.

Jess

quote:

Originally posted by piko:
Regarding the statement that Redemption cards sell for reasonable prices .
I beg to differ My collecting interests are Inkworks and I find it hard to be able to get Inkworks Redemption cards at reasonable prices. There are prices of up to a $1000.00 and up for some Lost 2 Redemption cards being asked for by a large UK dealer, And many over the $50.00 mark.
What would you consider a reasonable price for a Inkworks Redemption card
Another item is the high prices being asked lately for signed Buffy base cards some say they have COAs but anyone can print one of those.
Others dont even bother to offer verification .
But if people want to buy them it is their money.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: catskilleagle,

For my style of collecting, were I to collect Orville, which I don't...as long as it's the same card, I'd only want one version. However, lol, if they printed up a new copy (new copyright or whatever), I'd have to have both..cause I'm weird )

I used to buy things just for the sake of completion and cannot say I was happier for it. Like webjon, I now keep it simple and only buy what I like so my 'lines in the sand' are pretty loose.

I suppose one area that leaves me cold is parallels.
If I am particularly interested in a set, I will pick one card/image that most reminds me of that film and go after the parallels for it, but only so long as they are relatively cheap.
I have zero interest in buying the same base set, in it's entirety, multiple times over for slight variations in border colour or finish. My way gives me a 'sample' of each parallel and that is enough for me.

Extending from that... printing plates. Yes they are neat, and I have a couple myself as part of my occasional parallel chases, but the nature of the card often provides limited visual appeal. On a fbook group the other day, someone wanted $3.5k for a the Star Wars Masterwork Harrison Ford auto printing plate. It looked rubbish.

Costume cards with "material used in the making of" have no appeal. If they are not from costumes worn on the film show, what is the point? They are fake costume cards IMO.

As redemption cards have been mentioned, I like to collect them, although would not pay daft money for them, same as any other chase card.
The ones I did collect from Inkworks sets were harder to get before their liquidation, but I still never paid more than £10 for any of them. One I got for as little at 50p because the seller saw no value in a card that could not be redeemed anymore.

For my The World Is Not Enough set, I have 7x #R1 auto redemption cards: one for each of the 6 signers in the set (each has a different 'check mark' on the card back to represent the signer), and one 'blank' card without any check marks. I think one R1 card would suffice for most collections but where they were so inexpensive I figured why not?

I don't mean this in a sarcastic way but I do think price helps determine our line in the sand, maybe more so than actual interest in an item. But that's why we have to have lines in the sand I guess, so we don't have to sell our kidneys. Cinema 2000 had a parallel set that I initially ruled out but later picked up as the price got cheaper. Turns out my love can be bought at the right price.

Redemption Cards: I’ll pick up an inexpensive expired redemption card if I already have the redeemed card. I don’t tend to seek them out.

Foil Numbering: Sure, I’ll pick up numbered parallel cards especially if numbered card color design compliments the photo better than the regular base card or regular insert card. Also, if the numbering as some significance to the character (i.e., #7/100 for a card of Seven of Nine or James Bond)

Error Cards: I don’t usually seek these out. If it’s of a character that I’m collecting or looking for at the time then I’ll consider it if it’s not too expensive.

Variations: if the piece of fabric is has different colors in it than the majority of the examples and the price is in a similar range as the regular one.

For all of the above, if the price is not too outrageous. If it’s comparable to a “regular” version then getting one those to “enhance” or “differentiates” my collection from other collections is nice to add, but not a necessity.

Another variation across the hobby can been seen in changes with celebrity signatures either over time or during the sessions for a certain product.

As a full time autograph card (and part time set completionist) hunter I tend to seek out the better signature and not the most valuable. A recent example of this would be Tessa Thompson LOST vs Thor versions. Zoe Saldana Star Trek over Guardians of the Galaxy.

You find autograph variants within the same set such as Jennifer Jason Leigh in Pop Century.

Then you have rare times when the wrong autograph sticker is placed on a particular card. Not much interest in them.

[QUOTE]Originally posted by mykdude:
Another variation across the hobby can been seen in changes with celebrity signatures either over time or during the sessions for a certain product.

As a full time autograph card (and part time set completionist) hunter I tend to seek out the better signature and not the most valuable. /QUOTE]

Totally agree and a perfect example of one of those "lines in the sand" for me too. You can't help how people write their names, but it pains me to pay more than $30 for an autograph I want, but it looks like unreadable junk.

Even worse are those signers that have in the past laid down complete and consistent autographs, but have now shortened their signature or changed it in a way that simply looks like nothing. That may be acceptable for the free autograph handed out in a rush, but signing for certified cards is a paying job and I believe it deserves their "money signature", or in other words their best effort.

Age and Illness will effect autographs, as will stickers and card design space. Those are at least understandable reasons for deteriorating autograph quality. Lazy and inconsistent signers who don't care what they hand out even when they are being paid is a whole other issue. It also promotes forgeries, when any kind of scribble can be a genuine autograph,

So yes, I always look for the best, most complete signature I can find regardless of the card title, and there are many certified autograph cards that I would buy until I see them and then just can't bring myself to spend the money.

In the meantime boxes of Garbage Pail Kids sapphire are super hot at over $300 a box for 32 cards that are reprints of 80s cards and the only 'hits' in the box -- or rather the only box contents are different parallels of the 32 cards.

I like to collect any card that appeals to me, be it a redemption card, an error card of any description, a parallel numbered card or a variant card. For example I have a lot of British tea cards that were issued (usually sets of 25) whereby the picture on the front and the text on the back were exactly the same except for the name of the issuer.

regards

John

I pick up inexpensive redemption cards too though I lean more toward the unreleased versions that have come up for sale occasionally. I like oddball cards in general.

I don't go after too many parallels but also tend to keep the ones I get in a box.

I pick up error cards here and there. The George "Poppy" Bush hologram card, said to be a case card for a Babe Ruth set, has a blank front error version. I have that. The first "Men in Black" set has an error version of card #87 from an early print run and a corrected version. I picked it up when it was new when a dealer friend pointed it out to me. It was supposed to have a photo of the little dog but it just shows a location background. The corrected card shows a different background and the dog with both having the same back.

I know what you mean. In many sets there is an oddball card (the unreleased version, error, "mystery card," variant, etc.) that not everyone cares about but the completist does and so do the collectors who don't need all the oddballs but like getting some of them. They don't really care about building a valuable collection but they do want an interesting one.


Jess

Here's the Men in Black #87 error and corrected card:

quote:

Originally posted by Heroes For Hire:
Redemption Cards: I’ll pick up an inexpensive expired redemption card if I already have the redeemed card. I don’t tend to seek them out.

Foil Numbering: Sure, I’ll pick up numbered parallel cards especially if numbered card color design compliments the photo better than the regular base card or regular insert card. Also, if the numbering as some significance to the character (i.e., #7/100 for a card of Seven of Nine or James Bond)

Error Cards: I don’t usually seek these out. If it’s of a character that I’m collecting or looking for at the time then I’ll consider it if it’s not too expensive.

Variations: if the piece of fabric is has different colors in it than the majority of the examples and the price is in a similar range as the regular one.

For all of the above, if the price is not too outrageous. If it’s comparable to a “regular” version then getting one those to “enhance” or “differentiates” my collection from other collections is nice to add, but not a necessity.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: catskilleagle,